There are grasses such
as buffalo grass, creeping red fescue or Korean grass that don't
require mowing. If all you want is green this could be the
answer. Buffalo grass doesn't require much water
either. The Buffalo grass and Creeping Red Fescue are planted
by seed, Korean grass with plugs.
For a mowed lawn, Saint
Augustine or Tall Fescue are best. Blue grass and bermuda require
too many resources to look good and the bermuda escapes and is hard to
remove. In an area that gets significant frost Saint Augustine turns
brown for the winter.
Irrigation is crucial in our dry
climate. It is important to have a properly designed sprinkler system so that the
water will be evenly distributed. Or we waste a lot of water trying
to keep those brown spots green. I find that an irrigation
timer helps tremendously. Since I am forever forgetting to turn off
the water. I match the water that I use with the lawn. I watch
to see when the grass starts to go flat or lose it's sheen. Too much
water and fungal diseases start to crop up.
The height that we set
our lawn mowers will effect how much water the lawn uses and loses to
evaporation. I generally set my mower much higher than the
average. For cool season grasses such as a tall fescue I set the
mower blade 4" above the ground. On my mower that is the
highest setting. The more evaporation that takes place the more salt
will build up in the soil.
It is particularly important
with cool season grasses like Fescue that they be cut at the tallest setting as this
gives them a competitive advantage against Kikuyu and Bermuda grass and
other weeds.
These grasses will invade eventually but the inevitable will be postponed
significantly by the higher mower setting. The taller grass
will shade the ground making seed germination of the weedy species much
less common as well as reducing evaporation.
I delay
watering my lawns as long as possible in the spring so the grass will send
its roots as deeply as possible into the soil. This allows the lawn
to capture more of the water that I give it.
When
a lawn is planted it is extremely helpful to use a large amount of well
rotted organic material. I first roto-till the lawn area, then
install the sprinklers, then mulch, then roto-till again. The mulch
acts as a sponge and a nutrient source. I spread the mulch 4"
thick. It often pays to wait a bit to make sure that whatever was
growing where your new lawn is being planted is dead. I am paid back in labor savings many times over by the
improved performance of the lawn.
It is difficult to add
organic material to a lawn in large quantities after the lawn has been
established. Mulching mowers can help. It is just a lot easier
to do it from the start. Because the lawn growth slows down
tremendously in the cool weather I will skip weeks of mowing and do other
tasks in the garden instead. There is always loads of winter pruning
to keep me busy.
Organic fertilizers, such as
manure, or compost based products do almost nothing for the lawn unless
they are applied during the warmer half of the year. Generally
if the soil is good because you prepared your lawn area well before
planting any kind of fertilizer will be unnecessary. And during the cooler
months the rain brings far more nitrogen that you would ever buy in a bag.
If
the water runs off your lawn after just a couple of minutes I will set the
irrigation to water several times during a single day and
then skip days rather than water every day. This drives the water
deeper into the soil and helps the lawn extend its roots. If it
still will not accept water due to soil compaction I will aerate the lawn
by poking holes in it or by renting a motorized lawn aerator that pulls up
plugs of soil.
My two favorite types of grass for a lawn
are tall fescue and St Augustine. The St Augustine performs better
in a shady location but can go dormant in a cold winter environment.
